Showing posts with label Clay Marzo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clay Marzo. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Surfer Rides Waves of the Ocean and Autism


Since we had a great deal of interest in the last story about Clay Marzo, the surfer with Asperger's syndrome, thought you'd enjoy a piece from USA Today.

Clay Marzo rides the big waves off Maui like no other surfer, carving turns like a skateboarder on a liquid vert ramp or a snowboarder in a moving turquoise halfpipe.
Marzo glides through the barrel, a transparent tube of water, and dips his mop of golden hair into the wave's cascading wall, then shakes hundreds of shiny droplets into the air in the film Just Add Water. His barks of joy can be heard through the roar.
Marzo, 20, may be the world's most creative surfer. He also has Asperger's Syndrome, a form of high-functioning autism.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

The Rising Star in Pro Surfing Has Asperger's Syndrome


In the latest issue of Outside Magazine, Jonah Lehrer profile Clay Marzo, a rising star on the pro surfing circuit. In December 2007, Clay was diagnosed with Asperger's Syndrome, a mild form of autism. What's so intriguing about Clay's story is that his Asperger's isn't a hindrance or handicap. Instead, it's a crucial part of his success, allowing Clay to focus, for hours at a time, on nothing but the physics of waves and the mechanics of surfing:

Clay Marzo doesn’t love surfing. Love is a complicated thing – sometimes, people fall out of love – but there is nothing complicated about Clay’s relationship to the ocean. For Clay, surfing is an elemental need, a form of sustenance, a way of being that he couldn’t be without. He just turned 20, but he can’t remember a time when he wasn’t obsessed with barrels, shortboards or the daily swell report.